28.2.14

S/S 2014 - Details & Trims


Oversized gemstone and 3D floral embellishments are important new detail trends that have huge commercial appeal this season. Beading, sequin and embroidery decoration are also big news, particularly in monotone applications and as a detail on pared-back silhouettes. As part of the 1970s trend, we see fringe trim return as an interesting detail for leathers goods that is also mirrored in footwear.

- 3D floral embellishment
As spring/summer 2014 looks set to be a flirtatious and feminine season, there is a move towards delicate 3D floral adornments used across footwear and accessories. This is an important update for jewellery as chain necklaces, cuffs and oversized rings are decorated with large floral embellishments, which will be key for the youth market and perfect to update best-sellers. Clutch bags, eyewear and footwear received the floral treatment with delicate fabric florals seen at Burberry, while elsewhere plastic, raffia and clustered beads were used to create floral arrangements on ankle-strapped sandals and sunglasses frames.

- Heavy embellishment
Footwear and accessories are highly decorated for next season with paste stones, crystals and beading acting as important means of embellishment. The scale of the stones is central to the look, together with their generous application and vibrant colour, as stones are clustered together for an all-over textured look or used more sparely but in a contrasting colour to the fabric for stand-out looks.


- Embroidery
Several designers used embroidery in place of traditional print this season, using florals or playful motifs for colourful all-over treatments or as a placement on tonal grounds. This was an effective way of bringing a decorative embellished looks to simple silhouettes and brought pretty folkloric influences into play, especially when teamed with tassels and ribbons.


- Fringing
Fringing has been another constant across apparel this season, and so it’s no surprise to see it filter down to footwear and accessories. Designers went overboard for fringed trims or full-on layered fringing as an update to simple clutch bags and summer sandals. Frayed edging at ChloĆ© offered a simple and delicate approach to fringing, while long python leathers at Gucci and silk threads at Proenza Schouler showed how this technique can be used to the maximum effect.


- Tassels
Oversized tassels were another take on fringing as designers used them as adornments to bags, belts and jewellery. Long tassels were attached by clasps to handles and straps and came in coordinated colours and fabrics, or were used to make a statement in bold contrasting brights. This is the perfect way to add a new twist to a favoured silhouette, and could even be sold as a separate accessory at a commercial level.


- Laser-cut
Laser-cutting techniques maintained the pretty and delicate look for the season as sandals and bags were punched to create floral, lace and perforated shapes. Scalloped edging enhanced the flirtatious, feminine traits for the season with white and blush leathers sandals looking best for this application. Shoppers were decorated with grid or tribal-influenced patterns, updating favoured silhouettes and injecting fresh energy into next summer.


- Cleated sole
As the sports-luxe trend continues to reign across the catwalks, the cleated and razortooth sole will remain a key detail for footwear. This detail looks freshest when used on feminine silhouettes, creating sports-summer hybrids including the town shoe, flatforms and lace-up sandals. These staples are given a heavier sole as pronounced treads create a chunky appearance, with white or hot bright rubber soles being favoured.


- Chain strap
Chain remains a key strap style for smaller bag styles - mixed gauges of chain and colourful, interwoven ropes update the look.

- Handicraft
A naive, crafted feel emerges as an important direction for bags this season. Techniques range from tie-dye to embroidery.


- Metal bag clasps
An important closure style for ladylike, structured bags. Animal motifs emerge as a directional message here.


- Plated edges
Edges and corners become a focal point for feature hardware, with polished silver driving materials here.


- Studs and eyelets
Both flat and covered studs are key to updating this perennial decorative detail.



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