Make-up
1. Eyes
- Washes
In lieu of powder eyeshadow, eyes were washed with cream colours in orange and peachy-pink. The look was applied to either dewy or matte skin with little to no colour seen elsewhere on the face.
- Under-eye lines
A key trend was to emphasise the lower eyelids. Eyes were given a slight iridescent wash on the top lids then balanced out with black liner along the bottom lash line. A tiny pop of bright colour in the inner corners brought even more contrast to the look, as seen at Zoë Jordan and Antipodium.
- Lines
Dense black liner in architectural shapes created interest around the eye socket. Three-dimensional strips of colour across the lash line, as seen at Pearce Fionda, added depth to the look.
- Inner-corner highlight
The inner corner of the eye was highlighted with a pearlescent shadow to brighten the eyes.
- Bright colour
Bright colours in purples, blues and teals were placed over the entire eyelid and smugded out toward the tip of the eyebrow. Reflective sheens contrasted against colour on the lips and subtle make-up on the rest of the face.
- Lashes
Whether full and natural looking, feathery with a 1960s vibe or coloured in vivid hues, lashes emphasised both top and bottom lash lines.
- Shimmer
Dewy lids with glittery flecks and metallic shadows added a shimmer effect to eyes.
- Grungy
Eyes were heavily outlined in black liner and thick mascara, and paired with a clean cheek and natural-coloured lip for a subtle grungy appearance.
2. Brows
- Brushed brows
Bare brows were given a sporty look by brushing them straight upward rather than along the brow bone.
- Uniform thickness
Brows maintained an equal thickness from the start straight through to the arch, ending with a blunt cut-off.
- Darkened
Brows were filled-in thick with dark colour for a full shape. Complexions were kept pale for higher contrast.
3. Lips
- Orange
A standout colour for lips this season was bright orange. Creamier variations like that seen at Emilio de la Morena gave the lips a lesser intensity while maintaining the rich colour.
- Stained
Stains in berry and wine hues commanded attention towards lips. Colour was most concentrated in the centre of the mouth and bled outward, with a matte finish creating a "creased" effect.
- Hot pink
Two tones of pink were seen on catwalks for spring/summer 2014. The bubblegum pinks at Tata Naka and Fyodor Golan showcased a bright intensity while the fuchsia illustrated a depth given to the colour for the trend.
- Nude pink
Lips were toned down in flesh colours and left either completely natural or given a touch of gloss. To further highlight, an iridescent shimmer was added to the Cupid's bow, seen at the Julien Macdonald show.
- Red
A classic red lip was paired with brightly coloured mascara or a strong brow. Both an extreme matte and a subtle sheen finish were used instead of glossy textures.
4. Skin
- Super glossy
Super-glossy skin appeared fresh, dewy and healthy with a slightly sweaty glow.
- Glossy T-zones
T-zones were given a shine with gloss down the centre of the forehead through to the middle of the nose bone and finished onto the Cupid's bow.
- Healthy glow
A minimal glossy sheen over the skin gave a youthful appearance with a healthy glow.
- Creamy
Creamy complexions had either a matte or slightly liquid foundation texture. Soft washes of colour over the eyes or long lashes complemented the look.
- Highlighter
With minimal colour on the face, highlighter in golden tones was applied to the cheekbones for a sculpted look. Paired with bronzer or simply placed on its own, the tint gave luminosity to the skin.
- Flushed
Flushes of peach and pink colour were dabbed sparingly over the apples of the cheeks for a barely there look, while deep, rosy blush gave this trend a more prominent appearance with colour concentrated in the cheek hollows, as seen at Bora Aksu.
- Tanned
A gentle, all-over tan warmed skin with a sunkissed glow. Olive tones and shades of warm brown were favoured over orange tints.
Hair
- Plaits
Double braiding hung loosely on either side of the head or was braided against the scalp starting from the temples, as seen at KTZ. Also seen were thick, single plaits in a wispy texture.
- Buns
Although the classic chignon was still fresh for spring, creative alternatives such as messy top knots or ponytails coiled on top of the head then secured with a hairnet were also seen.
- Multi-textures
Multi-textured hair was a key trend for the upcoming season. Best seen at Henry Holland and Holly Fulton, hair was slicked through, smoothed back and finished into dry, lengthy textures.
- Grunge
Moderately saturated hair was left hanging loose in scraggly waves. Greasy roots and wet-look lengths reinforced this grungy style.
- Greasy fringes
Greasy at the roots, bangs were almost matted to the side as though soaked through with sweat, or parted into a curtain fringe as seen at Peter Pilotto.
- Slicked back
The wet look continued to be a massive trend on the catwalk. At John Rocha and KTZ, the look was finished with textural detailing from large crimps to microbraids. Hair was simply pulled back into simple updos, with some showcasing comb marks for a tougher, masculine look.
- Pony
Low ponytails were the most popular style on the runway this season, as seen at Marios Schwab and JW Anderson. Ryan Lo and Ashley Williams showed exceptionally long ponytails placed higher at the back of the head then wrapped with hair or with fabric.
- Hair accessory
Adorning hair were a range of ornaments from metallic clips that made a strong, structural statement to more delicate pearlescent hairpins and jewelled combs. Oversized bows and fabric swatches in bold colours were also wrapped around hair.
- Texture
Voluminous waves, crimps and scraggly wet-look hair flowed down the back or hung loosely over the shoulders.
Nails
- Nail art
Intricate decals depicting religious iconography in a tattoo style were seen at Henry Holland, while elsewhere glittered nails were spotted, best seen at Giles. Nail shapes focused on rounded-off stiletto fingertips or "the new square" – a stiletto nail with a squared-off tip.
- Nude nails with black half-moon and tips
Simple nude nails were given a contemporary twist with black polish on the tips, around the edges and on the cuticles to create a half-moon shape.
- Monochrome
Nails were simple in a monochromatic colour scheme, seen in both matte and glossy finishes.
- Pretty pastels
Aqua blues and sea-green pastel nails were seen in two finishes: either creamy and glossy or matte. Pink and peach pastels were bright in high-gloss finishes.
- Metallics
Metallic nails were seen in dark, petrol blues or in bright yellow gold on short nails.
- Nude nails
Opaque nude tones covered the nails and looked polished with a glossy coat, while more translucent nudes allowed nail tips to show through, as seen at Zoë Jordan and J JS Lee.
- Red and Pink
High-gloss red and magenta pink were the brightest nail colours on the catwalk. Long cutouts were seen at Vivienne Westwood and pointed talons at PPQ.
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