1.3.14

S/S 2014 Milan catwalk; beauty analysis



Make-up
1. Eyes

- Black smoke
Dense, black eye make-up differed in intensity from full-on masks across both eyes at Gabriele Colangelo to heavy shading on the lid or around the eye at Roccobarocco and Just Cavalli. 

- Graphic Liner
A shot of bright colour or jet-black liner was used in place of eyeshadow to highlight the eyes.


- Tinted
Tints of glossy peach tones highlighted the eyes, with shadow swept up to the brow bone. The look was paired with a natural complexion and subtle lips.


- Lashes
With eyeshadow taking a backseat this season, brands opted for long, defined lashes with a strong focus on the lower lashes. More intense versions were spotted at Pin-Up Stars and Luisa Beccaria, where models displayed feathery top lashes.


2. Brows
- Powdered
Powder was swept through the brows in shimmering blonde and yellow colours, creating a faded look with a fluffy texture.


- Caterpillar
Thick, furry brows with hairs brushed slightly upward and out along the brow bone created a fuzzy texture.


- Stubby arches
Brow arches ended in thick, abrupt cut-offs rather than slender tapers - best seen at Jil Sander.


- Stencilled silhouettes
Varying in thickness, nearly perfect brow silhouettes mirrored each other on either side of the face for an ultra-groomed, symmetrical look.


3. Lips
- Persimmon
Lips in a bright red-orange made a bold statement on the catwalk. Highly pigmented, matte finishes were the most popular.


- Blush pink
Soft pink lips complemented apricot cheeks at Dolce & Gabbana, while Sportmax and Anteprima teamed the look with a natural complexion.


- Creamy
Creamy apricot was another standout lip colour, best seen at Ports 1961, Fendi and Ermanno Scervino. 


- Nude
Creamy nude lips were also spotted on the runway. Lips were blotted out to match the complexion.


- Glossy
Natural lips were highlighted with coloured or clear high-shine gloss.


- Classic reds
Brilliant red lips lent a sophisticated touch to classic make-up looks. While most brands opted for matte finishes, models at Roccobarocco sported a slightly glossy texture.


4. Face
- Glowing
Rather than dewy, a youthful, radiant complexion was key on the runway. A faint, gold glitter finish to the skin was seen on the runway at Francesco Sconamiglio.


- Cheek colour
Cheeks were either flushed in bright pinks or heavily contoured with apricot for a sun-kissed glow


Hair

- Dry & wet mix
Hair at the roots was slicked through with gel to create a wet-look finish, while the ends were left dry. Hair was either combed all the way back to the crown or parted down the middle. A triangular parting in the middle of the head was seen at Byblos Milano.

- Ponytails
At Ermanno Scervino models sported a double ponytail with hair tied at the top and then secured into a low pony at the base of the head. Multi-tonal hair extensions were wrapped around ornamental buckles and then laced through the hair to create a looped ponytail, as seen at Missoni. 


- Front focus
Quiffs with sweeping strands of hair styled into voluminous bumps or coils brought a strong emphasis to the hair around the forehead. Hair along the sides of the head was scraped back flat against the head.


- Romantic updos
Hair was gathered into updos or ponytails where wispy flyaways framed the face. Braided hair brought depth to the look, best seen at Dolce & Gabbana and Moschino.


- Partings
Deep side partings started at the back of the head and came forward in a distinctive curve that ran low along the forehead. Aquilano.Rimondi and Laura Biagiotti combed the hair over the forehead to form a smooth sweeping fringe.


- Sleek and tucked behind the ears
A simple styling look, long hair was parted in the centre and then flattened and smoothed down at the top of the head. Hair was tucked behind the ears for a casual appearance.


- Soft wavy hair
Kinks and waves added rippling textures to otherwise straight hair.


- Top heavy
Hair was backcombed at the front to create height, while the back was left loose to emphasise the volume at the top.


- Matted volume
A heavily textured look, long hair was backcombed at the roots and through the lengths to create big volume. The finish was left matte and dry.


- Shaggy bob
Blunt-cut fringes were seen on short hair, accompanied with mussed styling. Models at Fendi and Philipp Plein looked boyish with choppy short hair.


- Accessories
Hair wraps and structural bows brought attention to the front of the head, while loose-hanging bows and statement ornaments adorned ponytails. Grips, hairpins and floral wreaths were woven through the hair, adding a graphic statement to simple updos.


Nails

- Seashell
Iridescent and pearlescent sheens in off-white or greenish/silver hues were popular nail colours, best seen at Laura Biagiotti and Blugirl.

- Nail shapes
A variety of shapes were seen on the Milan catwalks, from tips mirroring the cuticles to a long and sharp stiletto shape with a rounded tip, as seen at DSquared.


- Coloured
Bright red, fuchsia and orange were the top colour choices this season. Darker shades included a deep midnight blue, which was spotted at Bylos Milano and Giorgio Armani.


- Beige glaze
Beige tones added a classic elegance to nails. Shapes included mid-length ovals as well as very short, natural fingertips, while finishes ranged from sheer and glossy to super-matte.




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