1.3.14

S/S 2014 Paris catwalk; beauty analysis



Make - up

1. Eyes
- Paint brushstrokes
Colour applied to eyes had a painterly quality. The most dramatic look was seen at Chanel where the eyelid was covered in bright hues enhanced by thick black lines for a graphic statement. Thick smudges of a single colour were best seen at Céline and Vionnet.

- Metallics
Shadows in metallic sheens highlighted the corners of eyes and brought a reflective finish to the socket and lashlines. Warm copper and bronze tones were favoured as well as blue-tinted silvers. At Christian Dior, models looked futuristic with high pigments of gold painted all over the eyelid as well as the brows.


- Monochrome
Black liner was used to create flicks and angled detailing in the outer corners of the eyes. Shapes varied from sharp feline flicks at the corners to thickly lined eyes. White liner emphasised a bowed arch along the upper lash line at Anne Valérie Hash and Kenzo.


- Powdered pastels
Neutral blues and brightly coloured aqua and lilac shadows in powdery textures covered the eyes - best seen at Rochas - or was used in subtle washes along the upper lids, as seen at Giambattista Valli and Miu Miu.


- Softly shadowed
Faint colour in warm brown and mauve-pink gave a lightly tinted look to eyes. The lids glistened slightly with a glossy finish.


2. Brows
- Brushy & brushed up
This look was also seen in Milan. Caterpillar brows were brushed straight up for a soft furry look.


- Thick brows
Dense brows were drawn on using dark colours and finished with razor-sharp tips.


- Redrawn
Brows were blotted out then redrawn onto the face in thick lines of bright yellow-gold or dark brown. Colourful decorative plates replaced brows at Gareth Pugh whereas thin, comically drawn lines were spotted at Céline.


- Blotted out
Brows were blotted out with light, powdery textures either in short sections or all the way through the brow as seen at Alexander McQueen and Sonia Rykiel.


3. Lips
- Matte
Statement lips had a matte finish. Colours were bold in red and pink hues and paired alongside other stand-out features such as overpowering fringes (bangs), golden brows or vibrantly coloured-in temples.

- Creamy peach & pink
Soft and muted peach and pink lips in creamier textures were an alternative statement look for lips. The trend was complemented by fairer complexions and a more natural, no-make-up look.


- Glossy
Classic red was given a super-glossy finish. A two-toned lip was seen on the Wunderkind catwalk where hot pink was paired with red.


- Stained
Lip stains were seen in more natural pink tones and dark berry purples. Rather than a dry feathering effect, the stains were washed over the entire lip. At Comme des Garçons the wash extended past the corners of the mouth.


4. Cheeks
- Flushed temples
Flushes of pink and peach colour rode all the way up from the cheeks onto the temples, blending into the hair line.


- Highlighted cheekbones
A strong sheen of highlighter outlined the tops of cheekbones and was sometimes brought down as far as the apples of the cheeks.


Hair
1. Multi-textures
A strong trend seen across the Paris runway, hairstylists played with different textures mixing wet and dry finishes on the head. Hair was gelled at the roots and either raked through or smoothed down. The lengths were left dry and matte to contrast against the high-shine roots.

- Wispy updos
Fluffy, wispy hair was gathered up into messy updos, with flyaways left floating around the whole head. The look was soft and romantic.


- My little ponytail
Lengthy locks were secured into simple, low ponytails. Fabric bands were used to secure ponytails at Cédric Charlier, while Yohji Yamamoto emphasised a more rigid shape with bright coloured fabric wrapped around the hair.


- Wraps & rolls
Intricate updos saw hair rolled into several sections and smoothed into wraps that appeared polished and elegant. A rougher version of a chignon was spotted at Céline and Dévastée.


- Braids
French braids added styling detail to simple hairstyles. At Junya Watanabe, medium and micro-sized plaits intertwined with one another and created sculptural hair structures. Models at Julien David displayed loose hair with a French plait on one side, while at Carven long straight hair featured a braided parting.


- Gelled
Super-slick hair was scraped flat against the head and finished into ponytails or simply smoothed toward the back of the head and left loose.


- Deep side-partings
Long hair was styled with a deep side-parting and left to fall over the shoulders on one side. Hair was tucked behind the ear on the opposite side. Soft waves were seen at Saint Laurent and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, while a grungier texture was spotted at Julien David and Zadig & Voltaire.


- Unplaited
Soft waves added texture to straight hair. The texture was natural and appeared to have been created with an undone braid effect rather than using curling appliances.


- Detailed fronts
Sparse fringes fell in long curtains across the eyes or were gelled flat on the forehead. Hair at Olympia Le-Tan was styled into a neat, huge roll that sat on the top of the head and dipped down onto the forehead.


- Natural-coloured wigs
Wigs with natural hair colours as well as platinum blondes were styled into voluminous bobs or architectural braids; a sharp contrast to their demure colour.


Nails
- Special effects
Nails were given small details, from letters and stripes, to splatter effects of contrasting colours. At Olympia Le-Tan, sharp blue arches adorned fingertips.

- Metallics
Nails covered in silver and gold colour were highly reflective, while pearlescent finishes and deeper shades such as gunmetal offered a subtle shimmer to the fingers


- White
Nails were more opaque than translucent in Paris in cloudy, milky white hues.


- Black & Grey
Glossy black or dark grey nails were seen across several Paris catwalks. At Louis Vuitton fingers were painted in half black and half grey, while a half-moon manicure was spotted at Alexis Mabille.


- Reds
Reds ranged from vibrant brights best seen at Tsumori Chisato and Wunderkind, to deeper shadowed tones seen at Anthony Vaccarello. Finishes were glossy.


- Nude nails
Sheer nude tones finished with a high gloss left nails looking healthy and polished.




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