28.2.14

S/S 2014 - Shoes


A pair of good shoes are 'must have' things for every women this season.

- Refined slide sandal
Quality leathers and exotic skins evolve the slide sandal for next summer, moving it away from a directional poolside or sports item into a luxury fashion must-have. Minimalistic shapes appear with woven or metallic leathers, crossover straps and flatform soles all updating this refined sandal and feeding into the overarching sports-couture trend emerging for spring/summer 2014.

- Platform sandal
Sitting perfectly within the Modern Romance trend, the platform sandal is the ideal silhouette to be worn with the 1950s-inspired midi and maxi lengths for the season. Chunky platforms and cylindrical or block heels are the essential design details, with the majority of designers opting for an all-over monochrome look with the heel coming fabric covered or in coordinated colourways. Watch out for this becoming a bestselling item at retail level.


- Pointed-toe flat
Flat sandals remained sophisticated and dressed up for next summer as the pointed toe shape emerged, moving away from the casual ballet pump seen in previous seasons. Slingbacks and ankle straps were the main fastening details, while colour- and fabric-blocking, metallic leathers and laser cutting injected interest and bold brights into the mix – showing the versatility of this silhouette for day and eveningwear. More masculine versions at Helmut Lang demonstrated the continuing trend for androgynous styling, offering a directional substitute to the oxford or derby.


- Mule
The mule appears in a number of guises for spring/summer 2014 with the closed toe and elongated silhouettes – as seen at Victoria Beckham – offering a sophisticated take, while the peep-toe style remains the most commercial option. Flared block heels combined with chunky forepart platforms, as seen at Jen Kao, feed into the enduring 1990s trend and will be key to the youth market.


- Wedge
The summertime favourite returns to the runways as the wedge sandal appears as a focal item, most commonly with a platform sole, lending it an easy-to-wear style. Wedges were used to inject newness into this favoured silhouette with bold brights, wooden cutouts and carved cork all featuring, while other designers added heavy embellishment or fabric-covered heels by means of offering an eveningwear option.


- Sturdy mid-heel
After several seasons of having flats or vertiginous heels as the only two real footwear silhouettes, we see mid-heels making a welcome return for spring/summer 2014, most notably in combination with a simple sandal upper and platform sole. These heels are solid and sturdy, making them comfortable and easy to wear options for day through to night. Watch out for these making an impact at high street level as all areas of the market embrace this easy heel height.


- Peep-toe bootie
The perennial ankle boot is updated for spring/summer 2014 with peep toes and sports-deluxe detailing. Ankle and side cut-outs inject a peek-a-boo element into this favourite silhouette, while lace- or zip-up vamps add newness and continue the sports styling. Perforated leathers, white leather and neoprene are the go-to fabrics, suggesting a daywear aesthetic, while leather laces, satin trims and neutral suede also allow this to be a luxe eveningwear item.


- Gladiator sandal
The summer sandal is updated for the new season in knee-high and mid-calf heights, adding drama to this style. Lace-ups on vamps and around the legs and multiple buckles are key details in tonal or contrasting colours. Flat styles – ideal for warm summer days and nights – dominate, but wedges and stilettos are also important for the commercial sandal. Black, white and neutral colours are the main shades for this silhouette


- Simple two-strap
The simple two-strap sandal gains momentum for another season after becoming a commercial best-seller for autumn/winter 2013/14. The easy-to-wear, any-occasion silhouette continues to be a favoured shape on the runways with ankle cuffs, block-coloured straps and chunky ankle buckles updating this item for spring/summer 2014.


- Simple crossover sandal
As the pool slide emerges as the key new sandal shape for next summer, the crossover sandal offers a slightly less directional option. Thick, crossover straps decorate flatforms, wedges, platform sandals and simple flat slippers, making this the most commercial high-summer silhouette for next season. Back straps become a focal detail, securing the sandal on the foot, while woven and buckled leathers and white soles inject a soft sports reference.


- Flatform
The flatform of last summer continues as a directional fashion item for spring/summer 2014, sitting perfectly within the Sports Deluxe trend as cleated and striped soles bring a strong commercial look. Block-coloured styles give this item a causal and everyday wearability, while beaded and floral embellishments dress the sandal up for occasionwear – or daywear for the more fashion-forward customer.


- Slingbacks
After showing signs of slowing down over the past few seasons, the slingback was back with a vengeance for spring/summer 2014, appearing in abundance across all four fashion cities. The simple back strap updates the single-sole pump for the new season, and is a key item within the feminine Modern Romance trend story, especially in sugared pastel tones of lilac and rose as seen at Prabal Gurung and DSquared.


- Almond-toe pumps
Soft-pointed almond toes update the single-sole pump for spring/summer 2014 as court shoes continue to be a bestseller. This new toe shape offers a softer take on the pointed-toe courts from last summer, yet retains the sophisticated styling. Designers played with prints and fabric panelling for this silhouette, showing how the item can work across customer sectors.


- Masculine lace-up
Oxford and derby silhouettes prevail for another season as the masculine lace-up continues to have huge commercial success. Metallic leathers, python skin and leopard prints retain this item as occasionwear, with cutouts on the toe and heel and sturdy mid-heels updating this item for the new season.


- Woven leather sandal
Woven leathers bring a newness to summer sandals with huarache influences being a standout factor. Many designers played with huarache hybrids as both Proenza Schouler and Valentino took the traditional woven upper and gave it a contemporary twist, using an alternate sole rather than the usual flat leather option. Elsewhere, these woven leather techniques updated a number of the key shoe shapes for the season – including the crossover sandal, flat gladiators and platform sandals.


- Slides & thongs
Sleek upper designs created an elevated look for slides and thongs




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